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nicola au Perou
11 mars 2009

Lake Titicaca

Hi having a great time. Took the bus to Puno, which was fine. Sat nerxt to an intellectual Spaniard from Barcelona, who spoke Spanish to me all the way: He was retired and stopping in Julisa 20 mins before Puno to do 2 months voluntary work. Julisa looked like a dump and is pretty rough I believe, I think he was somewhat apprehensive. Got to Puno bus terminal and swamped by people trying to get commission for one thing and another. Luckily I had booked a hostal by phone so was very positive and knew exactly what I wanted to do. Got a taxi who still tried to tell me it was a dreadful place next to the railyway line and noisy but the train only comes here twice a week and not while I am here, anyway it is a great place. cheap but with a very comfortable bed and heeps of blankets, and hot water , what more could you ask for. Dumped my stuff about 3ish and went walk about to get the sense of the place and try to find trip to islands etc. Couldnt find anything I wanted so went to a 4 star hotel and asked questions they got the tour operator to come to the hotel and she took me back to the agency so that was ok: Booked bus to Cusco for Wednesday and a trip to the islands with an overnight stay with a family. Wandered about but as soon as dusk fell it got pretty cold. Didnt feel like dinner had had a late snack so bought some bananas and rolls and had an early night reading.

Slept terribly, seems to be an effect of the altidude here we are at about 3800 or so meters, and I just cant sleep: Breakfast and picked up from the hotel by coach which did the rounds picking us all up. Then down to the harbour and onto an oldish boat, with driver and guide. Oh its pouring with rain this morning so thats a bit of a disappointment but luck old us it cleared up by about 11am just as we arrives at the floating islands or uros islands: Very touristy but still quite interesting, they make their islands out of reeds and ancor them down but its like stepping onto a water bed, strange sensation. They tried to flog us all kinds of tourist crap and a baot ride on a reed cano type thing which most people took. I got some great pix, very colourful clothes no shoes but its wet under foot most of the time I imagin. After a while there headed off again to isla Amantani another 1.40 minutes boat ride. By this time I was sitting at the back of the boat outside the rain having cleared and although surprisingly choppy it was a great ride. Chatted away to an artist from Canada with long hair and a long goatee, who must have been in his late 30,s and an irish bloke 26 who seemed to be with a younger Austrian girl but in fact not a couple just travelling together for over 5 months, interesting hearing all their tales. Got to Amantani and had to climb a huge hill killing but luckily I got one of the first families together with the Canadian and an English chap travelling after his degree.

The house was charming, I took the downstairs room onto the court yard and theyeach had a room upstars. Very simple no electricity lots of blankets. Had luch soup and potato and cheese enough to feed a mouse really but cant compalin. Then the three of us set off for a walk. Had to be back by $ to join the rest f the group for a walk to the top of the island to a temple. It tookj about an hour and was quite demanding but I was ok and not too out of breath a poor Argentinian was really having problems. Views fab and beautiful place, Ive got hundreds of photos to show when I get back. Back at 6.30 and down to dinner similer to lunch, ASlistair is 6 foot 5 so I imagine he was famished poor boy, we then had to dress up in local costume and go to the village bar to dance. A little touristy and the three of us stayed only about half an hour but did our bit. Fransisca the hostess had light candels for our return, very pleasant. I couldnt sleep yet again and got up at 5 to wander around . Went down to the port where they were beginning a market so hung about and took some pictures and leart a few things about how they do things. Headed back for our 7 am breakfast a roll and a pancake and coco tea. Then good byes and off to isolaTaquile and again weather not good so had to don the poncho. Landed and had to walk 40 mins to the main square, lovely walk despite the rain. Main square quite austere . People not nearly as friendly, trying to sell their hats and weaving but really quite expensive. Then taken to a restaurant for lunch no choise but it was ok soup and trout. After that had to head back to Puno, sun had come out and it was less rough, the walk to harbour includes descending over 500 stairs. Nice boat ride back got back 4.30 ish.

Ate with some of kids off boat which was good and wandered back to hostal latish alone but it was ok.

Today up early again and pottered down to the port and just looked at markets and food halls interesting the only gringa around but the colour of the womens clothes is fabulous. So had a great morning , found a local place to eat soup and potatos but very good for a dollar just wanted to get away from the tourists for a bit. Then took a tour out of Puno to some funeral towers which was interesting to see the Altiplateau or what ever its called, lots more animals around here sheep, llamas, vicunas cows and pigs, there does not seem to be a lack of food, lots of fruit and vegetables here too.

Off to Cuzco tomorrow and the great hike starts on Friday.

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A
Catching up with your trip and will pass on your news to Danielle and Patrice who were asking after you . Sounds fun Nicola , I may be inspired to do something similar in future ...Been to St Jean de luz for weekend with friends which was great and wonderful to see the sea . Look forward to seeing all your pics , Have a great time .much love from France . Ann
E
What amazing adventures you have been having while I have been sitting at a screen in my S London basement! I lost all your contact details when a power cut wiped out my hard drive but Charlie has just texted me with them so I am trying to catch up - sounds like you will hit Europe as skinny as a rake but with the strongest calf muscles around ... and a bundlhe of quite amazing photos and memories. Hope this reaches you<br /> somewhere & much love Emma<br /> PS Josh stayed at Charlie's for several days in York and couldn't get over how tidy and organized he was! wish it would catch on here -
A
Will be off travelling till Friday, so here´s wishing you a good introduction to Cuzco and hiking around Machu Pichu. Great that Lake Titicaca was such fun, and that you´re taking so many photos <br /> Take care, Ali
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