nicola au Perou

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Hi all well
had a good 4 days in Puerto Madonaldo saw lots of animals plants, rain and jungle, relaxing time although up at the crack of dawn for jungle treks and sightings.
Arrived back to a sweatering Lima. Seeing people for lunch and supper before taking the plane Friday night bound for Madrid, then Toulouse.
If I get some time will fill in the blanks in a little more detail

Just to let you know my movements

Been here a few days seeing lots of inca sites, churches, museums and walking lots too. Getting to like the town better but it is very touristy really and considering it is out of season and they say it is really quiet I know I would hate to be here in the full tourist season from June to September.

leaving early tomorrow by plane to Puerto M. in the jungle for some jungle trekking before heading back to Lima on Tuesday evening for the last few days before heading back to France.

Still taking lots of pictures but no time to post them on here right now.

All best

back to Cusco this evening, all well but pretty exhausted. Some of the hardest walking I have ever undertaken, the highest pass was at 4215 meters I think, called Dead womans pass, and up there it was cold and pouring but the poncho seemed to do its work and I didnt get too wet. I decided to pay a porter for 2 of the 4 days to carry my backpack as out of the group all the kids most of them were between 19 and 25 were paying porters so it seemed silly not to. The group turned out to be 22 of us, I was the oldest by 16 years and then there were a couple of 35 year old men a girl of 30 and the rest between 19 and 25: i had expected there to be more people of my age but the other groups were similar with really pretty young kids too. They all seem to be travelling for between 3 months to a year all over the world. Kids came from NZ, Canada , Denmark, US, Argentina, Australia, and a couple from the uk. Anyway all in all it was good fun. Set off by bus to starting pointwhich took about 3 hours and then the porters and cooks made us lunch before setting off in the rain. Crossed check point and set off on the trail, I havent got the full details oof exactly were we stopped on me here but there were inca sites to look at and a stop to buy water or soft drinks and sweets etc. As we got further and further into the trail water which usually costs 1 soles a bottle went up to 5 and other drinks to 8 or so. We walked about !! kms the first day but with the pack and climbing serious inclines it was fairly hard. At about 5pm got to our first camp site where they set up the tents and made us supper. I ended in a tent with an Argentinian woman who spoke no English but we got on ok.

Supper was pretty foul and 22 people far too many as the table only sat about 16 of us and the rest had to balance plates on their knees. Met other groups of 6 or 5 or 9 and one of 2 so ours was a bit big really. Had 3 guides with us but still a little big. Next morning wake up call at 5.30 with metal mug of coca tea, good for altitude sickness. I had bought some coca sweets and chewed coca leaves on the way up which seemed to give me trmendous energy. Set off after not so good a breakfast at 7am on what was the hardest day, 5 hours supposedly of up hill and 2 of downhill at the end. Having given up the bags I found it all much easier and got there after 5 hours the 4th person in the group. I just kept going at a steady pace. The kids not so good at walking.  My tent mate got in · and a half hours later but she smokes like a chimney. Got there at 12 and then had to wait for the rest of the crew to arrive for lunch. We played cards in the afternoon, never thought of bringing a book.

3 rd day the longest hard long way up and down with lots of interesting sites to see on the way and then 1000meters of downhill over 2000 stairs, It was pretty exhausting but really beautiful more like jungle more to look at, and less rain and mist. Got to the camp at about 4 and then had tea and at supper a ceremony to thank the porters. I was chosen as spokes person and had to get everyone to chip in for a tip for the guys and then make a small speech of thanks  . It started to pour with rain so the evening broke up rapìdly but as we were getting up a 3 .30 we all wnt to bed but as it was pouring I couldnt sleep with the rain hitting the tent, I had a dreadful night . When we got up it was clear with a few clouds in the valley. A quick breakfast and off to the checkpoint to get into Machu pichu but another 6 kms to walk to get to the sun gate. It was really really hard as everyone was frenetic and practically running to get there for the sun rise, I was far far too hot but we got to the sun gate for 7 o clock and it was the first clear ish day yet. Some rising mist but it would clear, great to see the place from up above. Then waled down which was at least another half hour, then there were all the formalaties of getting into the site, leaving the bags and walking sticks , and showing passport and tourist tickets etc, then found out my train back was the first at 2.30 which was boring as had to race around and get to Aguas caliente in time for bus but in fact all the people I seem to get on with were in the same boat so we stuck together after our offical tour. Its huge and amazing, took lots of photos for you all to see at some stage.

Someone is waiting for the computer so I better go but all in all a great experience, my calf muscles ar knackered and so am I .

Hi having a great time. Took the bus to Puno, which was fine. Sat nerxt to an intellectual Spaniard from Barcelona, who spoke Spanish to me all the way: He was retired and stopping in Julisa 20 mins before Puno to do 2 months voluntary work. Julisa looked like a dump and is pretty rough I believe, I think he was somewhat apprehensive. Got to Puno bus terminal and swamped by people trying to get commission for one thing and another. Luckily I had booked a hostal by phone so was very positive and knew exactly what I wanted to do. Got a taxi who still tried to tell me it was a dreadful place next to the railyway line and noisy but the train only comes here twice a week and not while I am here, anyway it is a great place. cheap but with a very comfortable bed and heeps of blankets, and hot water , what more could you ask for. Dumped my stuff about 3ish and went walk about to get the sense of the place and try to find trip to islands etc. Couldnt find anything I wanted so went to a 4 star hotel and asked questions they got the tour operator to come to the hotel and she took me back to the agency so that was ok: Booked bus to Cusco for Wednesday and a trip to the islands with an overnight stay with a family. Wandered about but as soon as dusk fell it got pretty cold. Didnt feel like dinner had had a late snack so bought some bananas and rolls and had an early night reading.

Slept terribly, seems to be an effect of the altidude here we are at about 3800 or so meters, and I just cant sleep: Breakfast and picked up from the hotel by coach which did the rounds picking us all up. Then down to the harbour and onto an oldish boat, with driver and guide. Oh its pouring with rain this morning so thats a bit of a disappointment but luck old us it cleared up by about 11am just as we arrives at the floating islands or uros islands: Very touristy but still quite interesting, they make their islands out of reeds and ancor them down but its like stepping onto a water bed, strange sensation. They tried to flog us all kinds of tourist crap and a baot ride on a reed cano type thing which most people took. I got some great pix, very colourful clothes no shoes but its wet under foot most of the time I imagin. After a while there headed off again to isla Amantani another 1.40 minutes boat ride. By this time I was sitting at the back of the boat outside the rain having cleared and although surprisingly choppy it was a great ride. Chatted away to an artist from Canada with long hair and a long goatee, who must have been in his late 30,s and an irish bloke 26 who seemed to be with a younger Austrian girl but in fact not a couple just travelling together for over 5 months, interesting hearing all their tales. Got to Amantani and had to climb a huge hill killing but luckily I got one of the first families together with the Canadian and an English chap travelling after his degree.

The house was charming, I took the downstairs room onto the court yard and theyeach had a room upstars. Very simple no electricity lots of blankets. Had luch soup and potato and cheese enough to feed a mouse really but cant compalin. Then the three of us set off for a walk. Had to be back by $ to join the rest f the group for a walk to the top of the island to a temple. It tookj about an hour and was quite demanding but I was ok and not too out of breath a poor Argentinian was really having problems. Views fab and beautiful place, Ive got hundreds of photos to show when I get back. Back at 6.30 and down to dinner similer to lunch, ASlistair is 6 foot 5 so I imagine he was famished poor boy, we then had to dress up in local costume and go to the village bar to dance. A little touristy and the three of us stayed only about half an hour but did our bit. Fransisca the hostess had light candels for our return, very pleasant. I couldnt sleep yet again and got up at 5 to wander around . Went down to the port where they were beginning a market so hung about and took some pictures and leart a few things about how they do things. Headed back for our 7 am breakfast a roll and a pancake and coco tea. Then good byes and off to isolaTaquile and again weather not good so had to don the poncho. Landed and had to walk 40 mins to the main square, lovely walk despite the rain. Main square quite austere . People not nearly as friendly, trying to sell their hats and weaving but really quite expensive. Then taken to a restaurant for lunch no choise but it was ok soup and trout. After that had to head back to Puno, sun had come out and it was less rough, the walk to harbour includes descending over 500 stairs. Nice boat ride back got back 4.30 ish.

Ate with some of kids off boat which was good and wandered back to hostal latish alone but it was ok.

Today up early again and pottered down to the port and just looked at markets and food halls interesting the only gringa around but the colour of the womens clothes is fabulous. So had a great morning , found a local place to eat soup and potatos but very good for a dollar just wanted to get away from the tourists for a bit. Then took a tour out of Puno to some funeral towers which was interesting to see the Altiplateau or what ever its called, lots more animals around here sheep, llamas, vicunas cows and pigs, there does not seem to be a lack of food, lots of fruit and vegetables here too.

Off to Cuzco tomorrow and the great hike starts on Friday.

takes ages to post photos and its hard to tell which ones I want to send but it gives you a small flavour of what its like here. I am off at 8.30am to Puno on a bus and will probably not be on internet again for a little while as I hope to visit some islands and stay overnight and I know there is no electricity there. will be in touch asap when I can take bus to Cuzco on 11th so might have to wait till 12th to get to internet,

take care all of you

well some photos for you to look at

Hi back from my two day trekk really worth going but got up to 4910 m and it does feel alittle strange, just have to take it easy, got a bit of a headache and felt a little wobbly but only at that hight for a short time and then back to about 3600m.

Anyway got picked up by the tour bus and spent an hour picking up all the fellow travellers. French, Cilean, Peruvian, Spanish German and me, they were a good bunch spent my time with the young kids and sat next to a 27 year old Peruvian who was adopted by a Spanish family and has lived in Barcelona for 20 years spoke only spanish so it was a bit tiring but he had a goodish camera so we had that in common, he was good company After trapsing round Arequipa to pick everyone up we set off out of town first stop just outside town to look at the three volcanos surrounding the city but cloud cover and couldnt see much; I saw Misti when I went to the church early its quite imposing. Then headed on and another stop to pee and buy water as altitude he said we should stock up. There are also some coco sweets that are good to suck aparently and drinking coco tea too helps in the altitude. Off again and the countryside really dry and rocky. Climbed up and up and eventually started to see vicunia llamas and alpacas which was interesting stopped and could walk quite close to them. The volcanos we passed mostly covered in cloud, this is off season and rainy, that is why I got a place on the inca trail. Stopped at various lookout points and plce for cooc tea, one poor girl really really sick all the way. I didnt feel too bad just a bit of a headache but then I have a foul cold so maybe that didnt help. Eventually got to Chivay at the beginning of the colca valley where we were having a very late lunch and staying the night. We were all in varying hotels. I had mnaged to get a very good offer on an expensive hotel and ws the only one of the group staying there, I have to say I was so so glad that I was there a little out of the village with lovely views and very thick duvet and hot water . The other hotels were very basic indeed with mould growing off the walls.Bit of a bore for the bus driver as he had to take me up the mountain a bit and come and colect me too but it was ok; Took me up to the hotel and said I had 15 mins before we had to go which was ok as he deposited me in the village squae and I got about 45mins ib ny own to visit the church the market and take pictures; Then we were off to some thermal baths 3 kms away. 38 degrees but open air, it was very hot really and then had to run back to the changing area quite a way away but survived, then off to one of those ghastly dinners where they have folkdancers etc but it was ok.Taken up to my hotel where a chap chatted me up outside my room so I moved all the furniture infront of the door, a bit stupid but being there alone from my group I felt a little uneasy after all. There were some other people staying threre too but I never saw anyone. Slept really badly again, aparently that is common at high altitude. Up at 5 for breakfast as I ws being collected before the others and we were off to see the condors fly in the colca valley. Stopped off at churches and villages and very touristy really as ladies lined the route with their woven articles ponchos etc while little kids lead llamas around and other women had birds of pry to be photographed with:

Got to the condor bit and saw 6 or 7 but not very well but the countryside is totally breathtaking, terraces green and just beautiful: I was thinking Jess and Charlie you could scatter my ashes there it would give you a reason to set off on a trek together whenever that happens, I would leave you the money in my will to pay for the travelling expenses, might find somewhere I think better but to be discussed. Really loved the place but an awful lot of time in the bus too, got back to Chivay and had lunch and eventually got back to Arequipa at 6ish: Hoping to have a shower but no hot water. Taken all my clothes to the laundry. Got lots of tips on further travelling where to go where to stay etc so handy.

Hoping to get a decent nights sleep.